Kuala Lumpur, once a provincial backwater, today functions as the center of Malaysia's political, commercial, cultural and social life.

It is a city of quite remarkable contrasts - a combination of cutting edge, modern, cosmopolitan, sophistication and lingering old world charm.

This rapidly growing city - full of frothy energy - with a population of nearly 1.5 million is a fascinating juxtaposition of glistening, towering, skyscrapers - a tropical version of the Big Apple, New York - alongside graceful colonial edifices, pre-war ornate shophouses, gleaming copper - domed roofs and Moorish-style buildings. The hot and humid climate accounts, for the lush greenery and veritable profusion of tropical blooms in a riot of colors in a city which beckons you to explore and more.

KL- as it is affectionately called by its residents-ranks highly on my list of traveler friendly cities. I have visited this city, numerous times, often on my own, and always in relative safety and comfort. The vast majority of the locals are genuinely warm and friendly and will probably be curious about where you are from and interested in what you think of their home city. It's easy to have fun on your own.

The lodging picture is generally good: Kuala Lumpur is still very affordable for North Americans, Japanese and Europeans and the quality of most accommodation is very good.

Getting around is easy and many Malaysian's speak good English. The districts I would recommend for travelers include Jalan Petaling, Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin, Jalan Ampang and Bukit Bintang.

Jalan Petaling is the heart of Chinatown and its a great place to hunt for souvenirs. Overshadowed by tall office blocks and towering hotels, it's a city within a city and this is where you will come across Chinese groceries herbalists, shoe-shops and numerous delicacies. Fake "branded" goods are also plentiful. Nearby is the Central Market which has been extensively refurbished and today functions as a bustling bazaar cum centre for arts and performances.

Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin houses some of the most photographed buildings in town such as the elaborate Supreme Court built in Moorish style by the British at the turn of the century. Similar in architectural style and age is the railway station, another fine example of Moorish design elements much favoured by colonial British architects. Moving south, it's impossible not to notice the Dayabumi Complex with its very intricate blue Islamic designs incorporated into a modern office building. A short stroll will bring you to the National Mosque (Masjid Negara); this is a magnificient example of Islamic expressive art and the mosque has a unique blue "umbrella" roof design. This is a sightseeing area par excellence.

Jalan Ampang is KL's prestigious Embassy row and it's got a lot to catch the eye including de-luxe 5-star hotels like Hotel Nikko, the Renaissance and the nearby Oriental Mandarin, all lavishly elegant. There's super shopping at Suria KLCC which houses several department stores such as Isetan and Marks and Spencer, around 250 speciality stores, designer boutiques and eateries. If you should get bored shopping at KLCC pop into the Petronas Gallerie. Its a modern, international class fine art gallery and well worth a visit. All in all Ampang is a good area for lodging, dining and wining and for shopaholics.

Bukit Bintang is a locale I would recommend for an evening-night time visit. This district has long been a hub for shopping and entertainment, going back to pre-World War II times. The area includes the two major shopping malls of Starhill and Lot 10 and several five-star hotels such as J.W. Marriott and the Ritz-Carlton. Recently, it has been thoroughly transformed with an attractive pedestrian walkway complete with huge terracotta pots filled with bright flowering plants, water columns, shady trees, al fresco dining areas and touristy coffee houses. It's now KL's most vibrant leisure and entertainment center.


Best Bites for Travellers

The dining-out opportunities in KL are stupendous. Myriad cultural influences have made the city renowned for eclectic but very creative cuisine at prices that won't break the bank, especially with the current exchange rate of 3.8 Malaysian Ringgit to 1 US dollar. Food is taken very seriously here from the 5-star hotel restaurants right down to the simple hawker's stalls. The cuisine of China's Canton and of Southern India have been significant influences on the city's culinary heritage, as well as the sublime cuisine of Thailand. Here's a small selection of good restaurants in town for single travellers.

Gloria Jean's Coffee from the "good ole US of A", is a convenient place to head to for a late breakfast or mid morning brunch, and is a people-watchers' paradise. It is blessed with a wonderful view of the park and fountain in the landmark mall that is Suria KLCC. There are chicken, beef, turkey and spicy tuna sandwiches on either Panini or Focaccia bread as well as several different types of pasta and delectable cakes. Gloria Jean's is of course famous for its coffee including Cappuccino (RM 5.25 single), Cafe Latte (RM 7.25 single), Swiss Orange Mocha (RM 10.50 single) and lced Latte (RM 8 single). There's also a variety of teas to sample at RM 4.85. For the solo traveller dine at fresco in the courtyard.
Address: Lot G48, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur. Tele: 603 216 5299.

Gin Ger Restaurant is one of KL's fusion eateries, although there is a strung emphasis on Thai food at this eatery handily located in the Central Market, making it an ideal spot for lunch after a morning's sightseeing. The decor is rather garish but the food more than makes up for the strain on your eyes. The tom yam soup is fiery but delicious, the crispy squid salad is tasty, and the green curry chicken is formidable. It's a popular hangout for shoppers and tourists visiting the Central Market and a good lunch is around US$ 8.
Address: FM12, Mezzanine Floor Central Market, Jalan Hang Tuah, Kuala Lumpur. Tele: 603 273 7371

Coliseum is a cheap and cheerful place strategically located in one of Kuala Lumpur's main shopping streets which offers not only good food, especially for lunch, but oozes character as well. The Coliseum, an old colonial haunt, specialises in European food and wow.. its good! It offers a range of sirloin, rump, fillet steaks, fish and chips, baked crab, and other seafood dishes, yummy deserts and with its whirling ceiling fans, ornate darkwood rickety furniture, starched linen tablecloths, it's sure to remind you of days gone by! You can eat really well here for less than US$ 10 and it's easy to find, it's right next door to the Coliseum cinema in the main shopping street.
Address: 98, Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Kuala Lumpur Tele : 603-292 6270

Shanghai in the five star J.W. Marriot hotel in Kuala Lumpur's colourful, vibrant, Bukit Bintang district specialises, surprise, surprise, in Shanghainese cuisine and Chef Wong Sai Man served his culinary apprenticeship at a leading restaurant in Shanghai. In this sophisticated eatery you can try out dishes such as succulent pigeon blended in red wine, crispy duck served with fortune roll, sauteed shrimp, braised beancurd with egg roll, pancake with red bean paste and sip Chinese Tea. A luxurious spot for dinner and since the J.W. Marriott is popular among business travellers, thus there will often be a lot of single diners. The waiters too are so smoothy competent, and welcoming. They make, opulence and indulgence seem thoroughly natural and easy.

Cato's Rjstaffel Café and Restaurant owned by Hans and Anita Buchler is one of the latest dining places in town and is handily placed near to Suria KLCC - the shopping complex at the base of the Petronas Twin Towers - the tallest building in the world.

Hans and Anita and the waiters will make a diner feel at home and this eatery specialises in Batavian cuisine which they explain "is a blend of Indonesian, Chinese and Dutch cooking as enjoyed by the people of Jakarta during the pre World War II era." The chef's recommendations include Cato's chicken, lontong cap gomek, ikan bumbu bali (a fish dish) and the "Rjstaffel Menu" which is offered as a set dinner (Thursdays through Sundays) includes eight of the Buchler's favorite dishes. Expect dinner to cost around US$ 20.
Address: 258 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Tele: 603-457 9487

More Day Trip Ideas In and Around Kuala Lumpur

National Science Centre

Perched atop a hill in the outlying suburb of Bukit Kiara, the National Science Centre is the Malaysian equivalent of the Smithsonian Institute in Washington. The building resembles a truncated cone capped with a geodesic dome. It's open daily from 9am - 5pm and taxi services are available to and from the city center.

Royal Selangor, Pewter Factory, Setapak

In the outlying suburb of Setapak is the world's biggest pewter factory, the home of Royal Selangor Pewter which is recognised worldwide for its quality craftsmanship. A tour of the factory is both informative and entertaining and you might be tempted to buy a nice pewter souvenir to take home.

National Zoo (Zoo Negara)

Malaysians national zoo, about 12 km from the city, is considered one of the most interesting in the region and there are a number of live performances by some of the residents, notably the elephants and sea lions.

Batu Caves

A must see spot a few miles north of the city, the impressive Batu Caves are a Hindu temple complex. There are three grand caves: the Dark Cave, the Museum Cave and the Temple Cave housing artworks and statues. You have to climb up 272 steps to the Temple Cave home to the statue of Lord Muruga. The best way to get there and back is to take a taxi.

If You Go

Getting there:

There are flights into Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) from most Asian cities, Australia, New Zealand, Europe and North America. Among airlines flying into KLIA are Malaysian

by Raymond Wells